Chile Day 4 - The More Things Change, The More They Stay the Same

Night in the ski lodge was cold, but bearable. I was repeatedly roused by unidentifiable noises, thinking about how the alone-in-the-abandoned-cabin scenario is such an important part of the psychotic/supernatural killer horror genre. I figured that my role was that of the pre-credits teaser sequence where I am offed by the kiler without seeing him/her/it. At the end of the first act, the hero would find my flayed corpse suspended from the rafters. Good thoughts.

The chorizo griller misled me. Fortunately, it didn't matter much.

I waited for a break in the rain and scaled the rest of the mountain. Arriving at the top, I imagined a proper breakfast and some much-needed warming-up at Refugio Leech. A large, inviting sign proudly announced "abierto" outside. But it's "abierto" in a totaly-locked, shutters-drawn, heavy-wooden-walls-covering-the-entrance-hall sort of way. After cursing Dr. Leech, Chorizo grillers everywhere, and Fate itself, I settled into the reluctant realization that I'd have to push onward with no warm breakfast or flush toilet.

Fortunately, there were Views. Oh, were there views. By the time I broke treeline I was treated to jaw-agape vistas of alpine lakes, gushing waterfalls, rugged mountains, and active volcanoes. My route was a ridge walk, granting me incredible views for hours. I'd describe more, but the photos will speak better than I can.

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Originally uploaded by wolftone.

When they existed, anyway. The views only came during breaks in the clouds. Otherwise, I suffered through a nonstop melange of rain, hail, and snow (often at the same time). Sustained 60mph+ winds didn't help anything either, driving stinging hail deep into my face. Ouch.

I would like to take a moment and thank my Marmot jacket for keeping my top warm and toasty, carrot cake Clif bars for important nutritional and psychological support, and my Black Diamond gloves for keeping my hands comfortable all day. While I'm at it, someone needs to take the designer of my North Face "rain" pants and force him/her into a meat locker with a strong hose and see how much he/she appreciates the experience. Jerks.

After a downclimb next to a glacial waterfall, I fought through the rain to reach my Refugio for the night. It's a warm, friendly, polylingual place with a well-stocked kitchen. I have a padded bed, an unlimited supply of blankets, and even a place to recharge the phone. Among the english speakers here is a perceptive MIT grad who figured out my Boston origins based on the labels of my gear.

If I'm lucky, maybe the rain will stop tonight and tomorrow's hike will be dry.